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Read the summary of the Climbing Community Meeting held on October 27, 2018. Check here to review park planning documents and participate in the park planning process. The climbing season at New River extends from April through November. Compared to Endless Wall, the climbing here tends to be more featured with pockets, huecos, jugs, and edges. As you can imagine, this tends to be the most trafficked area during hot weather, though it also makes for a winter destination as its south-facing rocks tend to soak up the sun. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west, “Juan Pablo Tellez, Reckless Abandon 12b, The Coliseum – Summersville Lake, WV, Symon Ardila, Lactic Acid Bath 12.d, The Hole, New River Gorge, WV, imprisonment for not more than six months, A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing. Book Online. You won’t find a better guide than Grant Price, the head guide for Blue Ridge Mountain Guides. He’d eat the bullet-hard Nuttall with Nutella for breakfast, savor the thrill of high first clips, rejoice in brain-and-body-busting maneuvers, and wash it all down with pure-line bouldering alongside one of the oldest rivers in North America. It’s only a few hours from the Red River Gorge, but the sandstone at the New River Gorge feels completely different: think sharp crimps, mail slots, and massive slopers, instead of juggy pockets.While the routes are equally demanding, there is a steep learning curve, and climbers fresh off a sending spree at the Red frequently get shut down as they adjust. 5-Days, All inclusive. Please try again or contact us at support@57hours.com and we’ll resolve the problem. A grassroots rock climbing advocacy and anchor-replacement organization in and around WV's New River Gorge. Respect all gate, fences, and no trespassing signs. Besides the spectacular sandstone, stunning settings, and sheer number of routes (3000 + trad and sport routes from 5.6 to 5.14d), one of the factors that makes the New River Gorge the premier climbing destination in the East is the possibility of year-round climbing. Red Rock, NV. About New River Gorge Region: Almost all of the climbing in and around the world famous New River Gorge actually exists in one of three river gorges or a tributary thereof. You can read more of his work at aarongerry.com, What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? The American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic series takes place each September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality. Between these areas, there are thousands of routes! AKA, bring your head game. Tackle the cliffs in the 1,000 foot New River Gorge on a Lower New climbing and rappelling trip. As it wore away, it left the step-like roofs you’ll encounter. You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link in our emails. Please seek qualified instruction before venturing onto the cliffs. Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, water sources, historic sites, or the top rim of the cliffs. Climbing Area Description This climbing mecca is located in the beautiful New River Gorge National River, with over 1500 routes on impeccable (well, usually) Nutall sandstone. The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). Blue Ridge Mountain Guides: An American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Accredited Business that provides climbing instruction and guiding for beginners to pros that is above and beyond expectations. The Junkyard and Bridge Buttress crags are popular with beginners because of their easy access and lower grades. NEW RIVER MOUNTAIN GUIDES. Many of the climbing locations are located miles from roads, and rescue is difficult. Exposed coal seams are interspersed throughout the stone (which precipitated mining in the area). The main sector, known as the New River Gorge Proper, contains the most developed and accessible crags in the park. Really friendly and relaxed. It sits on the southeast corner of the state. Despite its name, the New River is one of the oldest rivers in the world. If you’re around in October, stop by for Bridge Day, the world’s largest BASE jumping event. Our two popular sites for this trip are the Bridge Buttress with a view of the New River Gorge Bridge and Beauty Mountain with a view of the New River rapids. Always change clothes out of view. COURSES. The local climbers I’ve spoken with say that no one they know has ever been fined but it’s worth noting the area’s regulations. Do not trespass on private property. Nuttal itself is erosion-resistant and contributes to the V-shape of the gorge, as well as the steep cliffs. Travel Destinations. The area splits between crags upstream and downstream from the Highway 19 bridge. Over one million people visit New River Gorge each year, thousands of whom are climbers. The prices are reasonable for groups, though they surely explode a dirtbagger’s budget. The New River Gorge, WV rock climbing is composed of three river gorges - New, Gauley, and Meadow. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). Kaymoor is a great summer destination featuring shade, steep routes, and big holds, though it stays wet for at least a day after rain. The last few years have seen an uptick in bouldering locally, in part because of the release of the New River Gorge Bouldering guidebook, which features over 1,000 problems. Get in-depth reviews and expert advice to help you start planning your next big outdoor adventure. Routes are apt to change stylistically as you ascend them, adding another variable to the puzzle. Park in designated parking locations -- do not block roads or driveways. For security reasons, do not leave vehicles unattended overnight at parking areas or trailheads. Be safe when climbing in the park. There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge, including some within the park boundary. He found some awesome climbs for us despite the weather and generally made sure we had a great time. Most crags have a 15-minute approach, though longer treks can be up to 45 minutes, with some requiring a ladder or rappel to get to the base. While DWS (deep-water soloing) is tempting, cliff jumping and diving from six feet or above the water is prohibited. The 3-day fest includes live music, clinics taught by pro athletes, conservation efforts, a pig roast, beer and whiskey, and a glow stick dance party. Please do what you can, as a climber, to limit your impact on New River Gorge and preserve it for future generations. Subscribe to our newsletter to receive a discount and updates on 57hours offers, webinars, and reviews. Europe, Mexico. The New River is ancient and has pretty much existed in the same spot since before there were Appalachian Mountains. Got more time? Development of this platform was partially funded by EU. ... -The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! The Fastest Way to Fix a Backclip. There are plenty of options, but here’s just a few: The American Alpine Club campground has become the climber epicenter. The New River Gorge and surrounding areas have lots of steep rock so there is still dry rock out there in a storm to climb. As you ascend them, adding another variable to the crags the turn of oldest. 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